Team Training Program

Crest Auto Care

Burleson, Texas  ·  Mobile Detailing

Work through all five modules before your first job. Understand the process, own the standard, pass the quiz.

What we do

Crest Auto Care is a mobile ceramic coating and paint correction service out of Burleson, Texas. We go to the client, their driveway, their schedule. Every job we do is a direct reflection of this business. Standards are non-negotiable.

Work through the five modules in order. Each one covers a core part of the service we deliver. After that, take the quiz, 80% required before you step on a real job.

Course Modules
Interior Detail
Module 01
Interior Detail
Light vacuum, surface wipe-down, glass, vents, and leaving the interior looking and smelling clean. The first thing clients notice.
✓ Completed
Exterior Detail
Module 02
Exterior Detail
Full exterior wash process from rinse to dry. Wheels, glass, trim, and when clay bar decontamination applies.
✓ Completed
Paint Correction
Module 03
Paint Correction
Understanding paint layers, using a DA polisher, selecting pads and compounds, inspecting your work, and prepping for coating.
✓ Completed
Ceramic Coating
Module 04
Ceramic Coating
IPA prep, application technique, flash time, leveling, cure time, and the client reveal. The most technical step, do it right.
✓ Completed
Customer Satisfaction
Module 05
Customer Satisfaction
Walking the client through the finished job, collecting payment, getting reviews, and reporting updates back to Nick after every job.
✓ Completed
Final Assessment

Knowledge Quiz

15 questions across all five modules. You need 80% to pass and get on the job.

Module 01

Interior Detail

The interior is often what clients notice first. A clean, fresh-smelling cabin sets the tone for the entire job, even before they see the paint.

🧹

Vacuuming

Start here, always before any wiping

Always vacuum before you wipe anything down. If you wipe first, you push debris into crevices and across surfaces you already cleaned. Vacuum everything that has a fabric or carpet surface first, then move to hard surfaces.

1
Floor mats: pull them out and vacuum both sides. Beat them out first if they're heavily soiled, then vacuum. Set them aside, don't put them back until the rest of the interior is done.
2
Carpet and floor: vacuum the bare floor thoroughly, including under the seats. Use the crevice tool to get along the seat track rails, that's where debris collects.
3
Seats: vacuum the seat surface, the crease between the seat cushion and backrest, and the sides. If the seats are fabric, use a stiff brush attachment to loosen embedded debris first.
4
Trunk: vacuum the trunk floor, around the spare tire cover, and any fabric lining. Clients notice when the trunk is skipped.
Move the seats forward and back to get full access to the floor. Don't skip the area directly under the seat, that's usually the dirtiest spot.
🧽

Surface Wipe-Down

Dashboard, console, door panels, and trim

After vacuuming, wipe down every hard surface in the interior. Use an interior detailing spray or a diluted all-purpose cleaner on a microfiber. The goal is removing dust, grime, and fingerprints without leaving streaks or residue.

1
Dashboard: spray the microfiber lightly, never spray directly onto the dash. Wipe from one side to the other in overlapping passes. Get into the defroster vents with a detailing brush.
2
Center console: wipe the top, sides, and inside the cup holders. Use a detailing brush or cotton swab for the gaps around the shifter and cup holder edges.
3
Door panels: wipe the armrest, pull handle, door card, and the rubber seal along the bottom. Don't forget the door jamb, it's visible every time the door opens.
4
Steering wheel and column: wipe the steering wheel thoroughly, it's one of the highest-touch areas in the car. Use a cleaner safe for the material (leather vs. plastic vs. wrapped).
5
Air vents: use a small detailing brush or vent brush to clean between the slats. A lot of dust hides in vents and will blow around the cabin once the car runs, don't skip it.
⚠️
Know your surfaces before you spray anythingLeather, suede, and Alcantara need specific products. Using the wrong cleaner can strip coating, stain, or permanently damage the material. If you're not sure, ask before you spray.
🪟

Interior Glass

Windows and the windshield from inside

Interior glass gets a film buildup over time from off-gassing plastics, smoke, humidity, and breath. It's subtle but affects visibility and looks immediately when the sun hits at an angle. Clean it properly and it makes a noticeable difference.

1
Use a dedicated glass cleaner: not all-purpose spray. Auto glass cleaner is ammonia-free and streak-free. Ammonia-based cleaners can damage window tint.
2
Two towel method: spray onto the first microfiber and wipe the glass in straight overlapping strokes. Follow immediately with a dry second microfiber to buff out any streaks.
3
Windshield: reach across to the far side first, then work toward you. Use a curved windshield tool or fold your towel into a tight pad to get into the bottom corners where the dash meets the glass.
Always check for tint before using any product on windows. Aftermarket tint films can be scratched by abrasive towels or damaged by the wrong cleaner. Use a fresh, soft microfiber only.
✅

Final Interior Check

Before you close the door

Before moving to the exterior, do a full interior walkthrough. Sit in the driver's seat and look at what the client will see when they get in.

1
No streaks on glass, check from multiple angles. Tilt your head to catch any haze you missed.
2
No product residue on the dash, console, or door panels. Residue left on trim looks worse than dust.
3
Floor mats back in place, properly aligned, not crooked.
4
Odor check, if the car smells stale or like product, a light spray of interior deodorizer in the cabin (not on surfaces) helps. Don't overdo it.
Module 02

Exterior Detail

The full wash process, from the first rinse to the final tire shine. The baseline service on every job we do.

🚿

Pre-Rinse

Loosen and remove heavy surface debris before washing

Before any soap or mitt touches the car, do a thorough rinse. This removes loose dirt, bird droppings, dust, and debris that would otherwise get dragged across the paint during the wash and cause scratches.

1
Start at the top: roof first, then work down, windshield, hood, trunk, doors, lower panels. Water flows down, so you want to push debris downward the whole time.
2
Wheel wells: blast the wheel wells with a strong stream to knock out packed mud and debris before anything else.
3
Bird droppings and bug splatter: if these have hardened, hit them with a pre-soak spray and let it dwell a minute before rinsing. Never try to scrub them dry, you'll scratch the paint.
🛞

Wheels & Tires

Clean these before the foam cannon, every time

Wheels and tires get cleaned before the foam cannon and contact wash. Brake dust is highly abrasive and acidic, and wheel cleaner overspray can land on body panels. Get these done first while the rest of the car is still just rinsed, never after you've already washed the paint.

1
Dedicated wheel brush and mitt: use a separate brush for wheel faces and barrel, and a separate wheel mitt. Keep these physically separated from your paint wash tools, no exceptions.
2
Wheel cleaner: spray an appropriate wheel cleaner (check if wheels are coated or bare before using anything acidic). Let it dwell, agitate with the brush, rinse thoroughly.
3
Tires: scrub with a stiff tire brush and all-purpose cleaner. Remove all brown oxidation and old tire dressing buildup. Rinse well.
4
Tire dressing: apply after drying at the end of the job, not now. A clean, matte-to-satin finish looks more professional than an overly glossy one.
🫧

Foam Cannon & Two-Bucket Wash

Safe washing technique from start to finish

With the wheels clean, now hit the paint. Apply foam cannon pre-wash to the entire car first. This loosens remaining surface contamination before the mitt ever touches the paint, massively reducing swirl risk.

1
Apply foam top to bottom: coat the whole car, let it dwell 2–3 minutes, then rinse. Don't let it dry on the paint.
2
Two-bucket setup: Bucket 1 has your soapy wash water. Bucket 2 is clean rinse water only. After washing each panel, rinse the mitt in Bucket 2 before reloading from Bucket 1. This keeps grit out of your wash water and off the paint.
3
Wash top to bottom, one panel at a time: roof → hood → trunk → doors → lower panels. Save the dirtiest areas (rocker panels, lower bumpers) for last.
4
Final rinse: rinse top to bottom with a strong stream. Make sure all soap is removed, soap residue left to dry causes water spots and streaks.
Never wash in direct sunlight. Water and soap dry on the paint almost instantly, leaving water spots that require correction to remove.
💧

Drying

Safe technique, no scratches, no water spots

Drying is where a lot of people introduce swirl marks without realizing it. Use the right tools and the right technique.

1
Leaf blower or car blower first: if available, blow water out of mirrors, door handles, trim gaps, and panel gaps before touching the car with a towel. Standing water in crevices will drip onto already-dried panels.
2
Large waffle-weave drying towel: lay it flat across the panel and drag with very light pressure, let it absorb the water rather than wiping it. Work top to bottom.
3
Panel by panel: don't try to dry the whole car with one sweep. Do one panel at a time, flip or swap to a dry towel section regularly.
🪟

Exterior Glass & Trim

The finishing touches

Once the body panels are dry, hit the glass and exterior trim before calling the exterior done.

1
Exterior glass: spray glass cleaner onto a microfiber and wipe in straight passes. Follow with a dry microfiber to buff streak-free. Check from multiple angles in the light.
2
Exterior trim and rubber: wipe plastic trim with a dedicated trim dressing or trim restorer. Black trim that's gone gray is a tell-tale sign of a cheap detail. Restore it.
3
Door jambs: wipe all door jambs and the edges of the door with an interior detailing spray. These are highly visible when the door opens and are often skipped.
⚠️

Clay Bar, When It Applies

Not every job, not every time

Clay bar decontamination removes embedded surface contaminants that a wash alone can't remove, iron particles, tar, industrial fallout. It leaves the paint feeling glassy-smooth and is a required step before any polishing or coating.

Clay bar is only performed on Paint Correction and Ceramic Coating packages. It is always included in these services, never skipped. Do not perform clay bar on a standard exterior detail unless it has been specifically added to the client's package. If you're unsure what package a client is on, ask before you do anything extra.
Module 03

Paint Correction

This is where we add serious value. Done right, it transforms a dull, scratched finish into something the client won't believe is the same car.

🔬

Understanding Paint Layers

Know what you're working with before you touch it

Car paint has multiple layers. From the metal outward: primer, base coat (the color), and clear coat (the transparent protective layer on top). The clear coat is what we work in, it's where swirl marks and light scratches live.

Clear coat is typically 40–80 microns thick. Correction removes thin layers of clear coat to level the surface. Polish too aggressively or too many times and you burn through, at that point the only fix is a repaint. Always be mindful of this.

⚠️
Deep scratches that catch your fingernail can't be polished outThey've gone through the clear coat into base or primer. Tell the client honestly before you start. Over-promising and underdelivering kills the business.
🧱

Clay Bar Decontamination

Required before any polishing, always included in this package

Before any machine polishing, the paint must be fully decontaminated. Even after a thorough wash, the surface may have iron particles, tar, and fallout bonded to the clear coat. Running a polishing pad over contaminated paint grinds those particles in and creates more damage than you started with.

1
Use iron remover as your lube: spray iron remover generously onto the panel and the clay bar before each pass. It breaks down iron contamination while lubricating the clay at the same time, doing two jobs at once. Never clay a dry surface, the clay will bond and mar the paint.
2
Straight-line passes: glide back and forth in overlapping straight lines with light pressure. Fold and knead the clay regularly to expose a clean surface. Work one panel at a time.
3
Rinse the panel when done: once you've finished claying a panel, rinse it off thoroughly with water to remove all iron remover residue before moving on. Leaving residue on the paint can affect the next steps.
Drop the bar, throw it away. Even one pass with a ground-contaminated clay bar can scratch the paint badly enough to require additional correction passes.
🌀

DA Polisher Technique

How to use the tool correctly

DA stands for Dual Action. The pad spins and oscillates simultaneously, which delivers consistent correction with less risk of burning through the clear coat compared to a rotary. That said, it can still do damage, technique matters.

1
Prime the pad: before the first pass, spread a few drops of compound across the pad and work it in at low speed to prevent product flinging.
2
Work in 2x2 ft sections: don't try to do an entire panel at once. Small sections = more control and better, more even results.
3
Slow, overlapping passes: move the polisher at roughly 1–2 inches per second. 4–5 overlapping passes per section. Rushing means uneven correction and wasted product.
4
Moderate, consistent pressure: let the pad and compound do the work. Pressing hard does not correct faster, it generates heat and can damage the paint.
5
Speed control: start at speed 3–4 to work the product in, then increase to 5–6 for the correction passes. Drop back down to spread and work the compound before it dries.
🟢

Pads & Compounds

Right tool for the right job

The combination of pad and compound determines how aggressively you're cutting the paint. Always start with the least aggressive option that will get the job done.

1
Heavy cut pad + compound: for heavy swirls, oxidation, deep scratches in the clear coat. Always follow with a polish pass to refine.
2
Medium pad + polish: for light to moderate swirls. The most common combo. Can go directly to a finishing pass from here.
3
Finishing pad + finishing polish: the final step before coating. Removes any haze left from previous passes and maximizes gloss. Required on every correction job before coating goes on.
Always start light. You can always step up to a more aggressive cut, you can't put clear coat back.
🔦

Inspection & Residue Removal

Check your work before moving on

After each panel, inspect your results under a high-intensity LED inspection light held close to the surface at multiple angles. Any remaining swirls, haze, or buffer trails will show immediately. If you see them, work the panel again before moving on.

Once the panel passes inspection, remove all compound residue with a clean microfiber. Polish oils left on the paint will prevent ceramic coating from bonding. Use a dedicated residue removal towel, never the same towel you'll use for anything else.

🚫
Do not skip residue removalCompound oils left under ceramic coating cause adhesion failures, streaks, and premature coating failure. This step is not optional. Take the extra two minutes.
Module 04

Ceramic Coating

The most technically demanding step. The finish the client will judge. Get every detail right.

🧴

IPA Panel Wipe

The final prep step, never skip it

Even after a perfect correction and residue wipe, paint panels still carry trace oils from the polishing process. Ceramic coating will not bond over these oils. The IPA (isopropyl alcohol) wipe strips every last trace from the surface.

1
Solution: 91–99% IPA mixed 1:1 with distilled water for a ~50% working solution. Do not use 70% drugstore IPA — diluting it further makes it too weak to strip polish oils. Use a clean, lint-free microfiber that has never touched any polish or product.
2
Spray onto the towel, not the panel: wipe in straight overlapping passes. Flip to a clean section of the towel every panel.
3
Work in sections: IPA wipe only what you're about to coat. Don't IPA-prep the whole car at once and then come back, the surface will pick up dust and fingerprints in the meantime.
Once IPA-wiped, don't touch the panel with bare hands. Skin oils immediately re-contaminate the surface. If you accidentally touch it, re-wipe before coating.
🎯

Application Technique

Crosshatch method, the right way

Ceramic coating is applied with a suede applicator block wrapped in a coating suede cloth. Work in 2x2 ft sections. The goal is a thin, even, consistent layer with no missed spots.

1
Load the applicator: 4–6 drops of coating onto the suede. Spread it by pressing lightly against a test surface. Don't over-saturate, thin and even beats thick every time.
2
Crosshatch pass: horizontal strokes across the section first, then vertical strokes over the same area. This ensures complete coverage and eliminates missed spots (called holidays).
3
Light, consistent pressure: don't press into the paint. The coating needs to lay on the surface as a thin film, hard pressure causes uneven thickness and potential streaking.
4
Reload as needed: if the applicator starts dragging without transferring product smoothly, add 2–3 drops. A dry applicator drags and can cause marring.
🚫
Never apply in direct sunlight or on a hot panelFlash time becomes almost instant and you won't be able to level it before it hazes hard. Always work in shade, no exceptions.
⏱️

Flash Time & Leveling

The most critical timing in the whole process

After applying coating to a section, watch for the flash, when the coating shifts from looking wet to showing a light rainbow or haze across the surface. That's your window to level it. Too early and you wipe it off. Too late and it hazes hard and requires correction to fix.

1
Typical flash time: 30 seconds to 2 minutes depending on temperature, humidity, and the specific product. Hot and dry = faster. Cool and humid = slower. Read the conditions and adjust your section size accordingly.
2
Level with a clean, high-GSM microfiber: straight passes only, no circular motions. Light pressure. Flip the towel to a clean side after each panel.
3
Second pass: after the first level, do a second light pass with a fresh dry microfiber to pick up any remaining product and ensure an even, streak-free finish.
4
Inspect under light immediately: check the panel under an inspection light before moving on. Any high spots, streaks, or haze need to be addressed now, not after the whole car is done.
🛡️

Cure Time & What to Tell the Client

Setting the right expectations before they drive away

Ceramic coating begins curing immediately but takes time to fully harden. What the client does in the first two weeks determines how well the coating performs long term.

1
No water contact for 24 hours: zero water on the coating for the first 24 hours. No driving in rain, no rinsing, nothing. Any water contact during this window can compromise the bond while it's still curing.
2
No washing for 7 days: after the 24-hour window, still no washing for a full week. If it rains, that's fine, but no active washing. After 7 days, hand wash only with pH-neutral soap.
3
No automatic car washes for 2 weeks: the brushes and harsh chemicals will damage a freshly cured coating. After 2 weeks, avoid automatic washes whenever possible, they degrade coatings over time regardless.
4
No wax or sealants: the coating is the protection. Adding wax on top reduces performance.
5
Ceramic boost spray every 3–4 months: enhances and extends the coating. Recommend a specific product, we may carry one to upsell.
🚫
Critical care rulesNo water for 24 hours. No washing for 7 days. No automatic car washes for 2 weeks. Every client gets these verbally before they drive away, no exceptions.
Module 05

Customer Satisfaction & Backend

The job isn't done when the coating is leveled. How you close out determines whether that client refers their friends or disappears.

🔍

Self-Inspect Before You Call Them Over

Don't let the client find something you missed

Before you call the client over for the reveal, do a full personal inspection of the vehicle. Walk every panel under direct light and natural light. Check for missed spots, streaks, high spots in the coating, water spots on glass, dirty door jambs, anything that shouldn't be there.

The goal is that the client never points out something you didn't already see and fix. If they have to find it for you, your credibility takes a hit even if you fix it immediately. Find it yourself first.

Bring an inspection light for the final check. What looks clean in normal light often shows defects under a high-intensity LED at a low angle. Don't rely on ambient lighting alone.
🤝

The Client Walkthrough

Make the reveal count

The walkthrough is where the client's emotional response gets locked in. This is a $595–$1,200 purchase. They should feel like every dollar was worth it.

1
Bring them to the car, don't just step aside: walk them around. Point out the gloss, the panel clarity, the depth. Let them see it through your eyes, they may not know what to look for.
2
Walk them through the care instructions verbally: don't just hand them a card and leave. Say it out loud. No water for 24 hours. No washing for 7 days. No automatic car washes for 2 weeks. Confirm they understand each one before they drive away.
3
Ask if they have any questions: give them a moment. Clients sometimes have concerns they're hesitant to raise, opening the door shows confidence in the work.
⚠️
Say this every time, to every clientNo water for 24 hours. No washing for 7 days. No automatic car washes for 2 weeks. This is not optional, it is part of the service delivery.
⭐

Getting the Review

This is how the business grows

Google reviews are direct revenue. Every happy client who doesn't leave a review is a missed opportunity. The best time to ask is right after the walkthrough when they're excited about their car.

1
Ask directly and simply: "If you're happy with the work, it would mean a lot if you could drop us a Google review, it takes about 30 seconds and it helps us out a ton."
2
Don't be weird about it: say it once, naturally, after the walkthrough. Not multiple times, not before you've shown them the car.
3
They'll get a follow-up text: the business system (GHL) sends an automated review request after the job. You don't need to handle this, just know it's happening so you're not confused when clients mention it.
📸

Photos

Content that keeps the marketing running

Every job is a content opportunity. High-quality before/after photos are the single most effective ad creative for detailing businesses. Getting good photos is part of the job.

1
Before photos: take them right when you arrive, before you touch anything. Get the overall car and close-ups of the worst defects (swirls, oxidation, dirty interior).
2
After photos: same angles as before. Get overall shots and close-ups of corrected areas. Natural light works best, position the car so the finish is catching the light.
3
Ask permission: most clients are fine with their car being posted, but always confirm. "Mind if we share the before and after on our Instagram?", most will say yes and feel good about it.
📲

Reporting Back to Nick

Every job, without exception

After every job wraps up, you send Nick a quick update. This is non-negotiable, it keeps operations running cleanly and makes sure nothing falls through the cracks.

1
Job status: confirm the job is done, any issues that came up, how the client reacted.
2
Before and after photos: send them via text or iMessage right after the job. Don't wait until the end of the day.
3
Flag anything unusual: paint damage found during the job, a client who seemed unhappy, equipment issues, anything that wasn't normal. Nick needs to know in real time, not a week later.
4
Confirm payment was collected: if the client paid on-site, confirm it. If they were invoiced, note that it's outstanding so Nick can track it.
A quick text with a before/after photo and "job done, client happy, paid" takes 30 seconds. This is the minimum. If something went sideways, call, don't text.
Final Assessment

Knowledge Quiz

15 questions across all five modules. 80% to pass. No open book.

Question 1 of 15 · Interior Detail
What should you always do before wiping down interior surfaces?
A) Vacuum first, wiping before vacuuming pushes debris into crevices across surfaces you already cleaned
B) Spray all-purpose cleaner across every surface first to loosen grime
C) Clean the glass first since it takes the longest
D) Open all doors and let the interior air out for 10 minutes
Question 2 of 15 · Interior Detail
Why should you never spray product directly onto the dashboard?
A) Dashboard plastic reacts chemically to spray products
B) The spray will spread onto the windshield and leave a haze
C) Spraying directly puts product into vents and gaps where it leaves residue and can cause damage
D) It wastes product since the dash absorbs it too quickly
Question 3 of 15 · Interior Detail
Before using any product on leather or Alcantara seats, what should you do?
A) Spot test with all-purpose cleaner since it works on all surfaces
B) Vacuum the seat thoroughly to prepare the surface
C) Use a steam cleaner first to open up the material
D) Confirm the surface material and use a product specifically safe for it, wrong products can stain or permanently damage these materials
Question 4 of 15 · Exterior Detail
Why do you clean the wheels before washing the body panels?
A) Wheel cleaner needs more time to dwell and should be applied first
B) The splash from cleaning wheels will contaminate nearby panels, do wheels first so the body wash removes any overspray
C) Wheels are on the ground level so they should always be done first top-to-bottom order
D) Wheel cleaner will damage paint if it contacts the body after panels are washed
Question 5 of 15 · Exterior Detail
When is clay bar decontamination performed on an exterior detail?
A) On every detail job automatically, it's standard practice
B) Whenever the paint feels rough to the touch after washing
C) Only on Paint Correction and Ceramic Coating packages where it is always included, never on a standard exterior detail unless specifically added
D) Only on newer vehicles since older paint is too delicate for clay bar
Question 6 of 15 · Exterior Detail
Why should you never wash a car in direct sunlight?
A) Water and soap dry on the paint almost instantly, leaving water spots that require paint correction to remove
B) UV exposure activates the soap and causes it to etch into the clear coat
C) The foam cannon doesn't produce enough foam in high heat
D) Direct sunlight makes swirl marks temporarily invisible so you can't inspect properly
Question 7 of 15 · Paint Correction
A client has a scratch that catches your fingernail. What do you tell them?
A) That a heavy cut compound and aggressive pad will remove it completely
B) That a two-step correction will reduce the appearance of the scratch by about 80%
C) That ceramic coating will fill in and seal the scratch after it's applied
D) That the scratch goes through the clear coat and polishing won't fix it, a repaint would be required, and you'll give them an honest assessment
Question 8 of 15 · Paint Correction
What is the correct approach when selecting how aggressive to start with pad and compound?
A) Always start with the most aggressive combination to get the correction done fastest
B) Start with the least aggressive option that will address the defects and only step up if it's not working
C) Match the aggressiveness to the age of the vehicle, newer cars get lighter cuts
D) Use the same medium pad and polish on every job to keep things consistent
Question 9 of 15 · Paint Correction
Why must all compound residue be removed before applying ceramic coating?
A) Residue makes flash time unpredictable and hard to judge
B) Compound residue changes the color tone of the panel under the coating
C) The polish oils in the residue prevent the ceramic coating from bonding, causing adhesion failures and potential streaking or peeling
D) Residue traps heat under the coating and causes it to cure unevenly
Question 10 of 15 · Ceramic Coating
What is the purpose of the IPA panel wipe before applying ceramic coating?
A) To strip all residual polish oils and contaminants so the ceramic coating can bond directly to the clean clear coat
B) To add a base primer layer that improves coating adhesion
C) To cool the panel down before the coating is applied
D) To dilute any remaining compound residue so it mixes harmlessly into the coating
Question 11 of 15 · Ceramic Coating
What application pattern should you use for ceramic coating?
A) Random overlapping circles to avoid leaving directional lines
B) Top to bottom only in straight vertical passes
C) Diagonal strokes at 45 degrees to ensure even spread
D) Crosshatch, horizontal passes first, then vertical passes over the same section to ensure full, even coverage
Question 12 of 15 · Ceramic Coating
How long must the client keep ALL water off a fresh ceramic coating before anything else?
A) 24 hours, zero water contact while the coating bonds
B) 48 hours
C) 12 hours
D) 3 days
Question 13 of 15 · Customer Satisfaction
When is the best time to ask a client for a Google review?
A) Before the job starts when they're in a good mood and haven't seen any issues yet
B) Via text the following day once they've had time to experience the results
C) Right after the client walkthrough when they're excited about the finished car
D) Only if the client brings it up first, asking for reviews feels unprofessional
Question 14 of 15 · Customer Satisfaction
What is the minimum update you need to send Nick after every completed job?
A) Job complete confirmation, before/after photos, whether the client was happy, and payment status
B) A quick text saying the job is done, Nick will follow up for photos and payment details separately
C) Only send an update if something went wrong, no news is good news on a normal job
D) End of day summary covering all jobs that day
Question 15 of 15 · Customer Satisfaction
What are the three care rules you must tell every ceramic coating client verbally before they drive away?
A) No washing for 3 days, no wax for a week, no automatic washes for a month
B) No water for 48 hours, no washing for 5 days, no wax ever
C) No water for 24 hours, no washing for 7 days, no automatic car washes for 2 weeks
D) No washing for 7 days, no wax for 30 days, no pressure washing ever